Blogs

Where to go in Belgium? Kortrijk!


By Vera Hofman, 2011-02-14

Last year on February 11th I was in London to attend a tasting of Seventypercent.com with Art Pollard of Amano, which I enjoyed very much. This year on February 11th I was in Kortrijk to visit my chocolate friend Geert Vercruysse ( www.patisserievercruysse.be ).

I met Geert at a chocolate symposium for professionals arranged by Hidde de Brabander, a talented patissier/chocolatier in the Netherlands, May last year. I represented Original Beans (I am their ambassador). Geert was very enthusiastic and I was impressed by his tasting vocabulaire. It took a lot of months before I had the opportunity to visit him. But finally....

What a beautiful shop he has! Pastries, homemade chocolates and a fine selection of bars. Original Beans' had just arrived and were already displayed on the counter. First I had to taste some delicious pastries and chocolates. My favourite was a chocolate with a Pacari Raw ganache. Geert makes everything on his own, unbelievable! After that there was some work to do: making chocolate cakes with a mousse of Valrhona's Tanariva and a mousse of Amano's Madagascar, see photos below. Gorgeous!

At last I did some research in the shop. Could I find a bar I didn't taste so far? Yes! Bouga Cacao and the Heritage Limited Edition of El Ceibo.

February 14th is my birthday. I will treat my colleagues on Geert's fine chocolates. I'm sure they'll love it!

Thank you Geert for your warm welcome. I had a wonderful time!

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Last week, we have finally received our sample of cacao beans from the cooperative we work with (Jose Olaya - Article on our website here ).

With that cacao we made the first steps of chocolate making with Sr Walter Campana in the city of Cusco in Peru.

This video will show you the first steps of our artisanal chocolate process : Toasting, Husk removing, winnowing and grinding.

ChocoMuseo Working with cacao - Trabajando con cacao

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Please watch our website ChocoMuseo Peru for more information on our work.

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Duffy's Chocolate in Amsterdam


By Pimm van der Donk, 2011-02-10

As first and only Chocolaterie in the Netherlands, we yesterday received Duffys Chocolate, the second, artisan bean-to-bar company in the UK, in Cleethorpes, Lincolnshire.
All bars are single origin, so all from one harvest, one certain area in a certain country and therefore all of them with a certain tast profile Each batch of beans is conched between 40-70 hours.

The bars we have in our Chocolaterie in Amsterdam are:

  • Corazon del Ecuador- 43% milkchocolate,
  • Corazon del Ecuador72% and 83% dark chocolate. The beans are from Calceta in Ecuador.
  • Star of Peru - 70% dark chocolate
  • Simply the ultimate is the Indio Rojo, made of the 72% Xoco Criollo from Honduras.

All chocolate is also single origin, handmade, fairly-traded and organic.

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ChocoMuseo, the cacao and chocolate museum in Cusco, Peru will open soon.

To have an idea of how it will look like, please look here for taking a 3D virtual tour.

Next step will be to have a real virtual tour where you can read every sign and learn about cacao and chocolate.

Tomorrow, stone-grinding machines will arrive from the US and we will finally be able to taste and make chocolate with our organic fermented cacao beans obtained from the Jose Olaya Cooperative.

We will tell you more about it in the next post.

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Taza Chocolate Mexicanos


By Pimm van der Donk, 2011-02-05

The Taza chocolate Mexicanos have finally arrived in our Chocolaterie in Amsterdam!

The authentic stone-ground chocolate from Somerville, MA, is direct trade, gluten, dairy and soy free and comes in 8 different varieties: Yerba Mat, Cacao Puro, Salted Almond, Vanilla Bean, Guajillo Chili, Cinnamon, Salt&Pepper and Coffee.

We also have the chocolate covered Cashews, and they're treat.

Great packaging also.

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A one-two Parisian chocolate punch


By Sweet Freak, 2011-01-30

Jean-Paul Hvin, Patrick Roger, Un Dimanche Paris I was certainly getting around to my favorite chocolatiers during my last weeks in Paris. But in the very last few days, I made visits to two brand new chocolatiers: Chloe Chocolat and Franck Kestener.

My own copy of Chlo Doutre-Roussels bible, The Chocolate Connoisseur (2005), is a tattered, stained mess from all the bonbons I consumed while reading about Criollo trees and the tempering process. And when I spoke with Chlo at the Salon du Chocolat in October about the chocolate salon she was opening dangerously close to my apartment, needless to say I was as giddy as a kid in a candy shop. She debuted her two-story sliver of a salon just days before my departure, so I got to sit and chat with her and taste some mighty good chocolate.

What distinguishes Chloaside from being the former chocolate buyer for Fortnum & Mason and one of the very few female pros in an industry dominated by menis how no-nonsense she is. She doesnt scold about cocoa percentages or eschew milk chocolate for dark. She doesnt make you feel like a chump for liking chocolate even if its not wrapped up from a beans to bar artisan or stamped with organic approval. Dont worry about where the beans come from, she insists. When you buy chocolate, youre buying an emotional experience; its sensory. Ah oui, merci!

Thats not to say shes not on a crusade to make the world filled with better chocolate and more appreciation for it. Indeed, the intent of her new Marais home is to school both amateurs and connoisseurs through classes ranging from an introduction to chocolate to comprehensive international trends. She also offers two-and-a-half-hour walking tours that pay visits to some of the citys most prestigious chocolatiers. And, once youve worked up a chocolate appetite, she offers milk and dark chocolate tablettes (in adorable packaging), both of which are divine and can be paired with carefully selected teas.

Across town, Meilleur Ouvrier de France Chocolatier, Franck Kestener offers a different, more decadent chocolate experience. Its a posh shop near the Luxembourg Gardens, peddling marzipan, macarons, mendiants and more.

I went straight for his ganache-filled bonbons, which come in a beautiful and inspired range of flavors, from buttery tarte tatin to crisp mint to fruity juniper.

I saved my square of Atlantiqueshortbread and salted caramel, topped with 66% dark chocolatefor the plane ride home, but piggishly ate two Nuages while strolling the streets of the sixth arrondissement. Another one of the young chocolatiers specialties, these treats look like cannels but are filled with a light and fluffy whipped chocolate marshmallow.

Its been over three weeks since those visits. My cupboard is finally depleted of the bars and bonbons I brought home with me. I think I need another Parisian chocolate run.

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While opening the Cacao and Chocolate Museum in Cusco, we decided to travel to the "Valle de la Convencin" (5 hours from Cusco), region where most cacao is produced in Peru.

Talking to some producers or cooperatives, we saw that in fact cacao is not or poorly fermented in these region because farmers do not receive enough money to ferment their cacao so they prefer selling it without fermentation.

A lot of people here in Cusco prepare and produce what they call "Chocolate para taza" which is mainly cacao paste (or cacao liquor) that people use to prepare hot chocolate mixing it with hot water or milk. And in fact a lot of these producers do not know about fermentation and the impact that it has on the flavour of chocolate.

At ChocoMuseo we have decided to work with a small cooperative called "Cooperativa Jose Olaya" to be able to get some good fermented cacao. All the producers seem to be enthusiasmed by the project. For the moment, only 5 or 6 will ferment their cacao properly but the objective is that the whole 104 farmers in a few years will produce high quality cacao and find other buyers who can assure them good prices.

In a week we will receive our first batch of fermented cacao (Chuncho and Hybrid) and we will make our chocolate and see how it will come out. Very exciting in fact! We'll tell you more about it on our blog/website - http://Peru.ChocoMuseo.com

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Idilio Origins


By Pimm van der Donk, 2011-01-26
Our ordered chocolate bars from Switzerland, the Idilio Origins, have arrived in our Chocolaterie in Amsterdam. From the great and super 1ero Porcelana Criollo Puro to the delicious and charming 5nto Cooperativa Amazonas. The cocoa beans all come from Venezuela. A pretty new brand from the (milk)chocolate-country: Swiss honour is saved!
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For two months now, Clara Isabel and I are in the fantastic city of Cusco, Per.

Our objective is to open the new cacao and chocolate museum in this city.

For almost 1 month we looked for the perfect place to install this museum. We finally found a great place in the center of Cusco, on the wonderful Plaza Regocijo.

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We now have 3 to 4 weeks before opening the museum and we are in the most interesting part: Cacao sourcing. We went to Quillabamba (6 hours away from Cusco) in the jungle to work with some cooperatives. We are now waiting for the cacao to arrive in Cusco and to start preparing our own artisanal chocolate.

We also work with different artists in the region and in the sacred valley to prepare some souvenirs and art pieces for the museum.

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We hope to be opening between the 14th of february and the end of february.

Please check our website: http://peru.chocomuseo.com to have all the information about this future place to exchange about Chocolate in Peru

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Cocoa: NEW DEVELOPMENTS


By Vercruysse Geert, 2011-01-24

Source: http://ruraldevelopment.info/cocoa.aspx

The recent activity of Armajaro, the trading firm that has purchased stocks adding 240,100 tons constituting up to to 7% of global annual production have shaken the market with prices being pushed upwards beyond $2,800 per ton. That is a trader gain, it does nothing much to help farmers.
Armajaro has long warned of production problems in the Ivory Coast and has bet successfully on rising prices during previous rallies. Intelligence, it seems, is the most precious commodity. Beyond short-term squeezes, as the Dukes discovered, it is still largely about supply and demand. Armajaro has now released its position so it would appear to us that the strategy was a short term speculation on prices and being able to influence them.


Cocoa Facts & Figures
  • Number of cocoa farmers, worldwide: 5-6 million
  • Number of people who depend upon cocoa for their livelihood, worldwide: 40-50 million
  • Annual cocoa production, worldwide:4 million tons
  • Annual increase in demand for cocoa: 3 percent per year, for the past 100 years
  • Current global market value of annual cocoa crop: $5.1 billion
  • Cocoa growing regions: Africa, Asia, Central America, South America (all within 20 degrees of the equator)
  • Percentage of cocoa that comes from West Africa: 70 percent
  • Length of time required for a cocoa tree to produce its first beans (pods): five years
  • Duration of peak growing period for the average cocoa tree: 10 years
It is ambitious to develop a page on cocoa beans because there are effective commodity associations, bodies and major trading interests. However, nothing ventured, nothing gained, so we will develop this page and hope to provide food for thought.
Having experienced relatively slow growth for much of the 1960s and 70s, cocoa production has been increasing at a faster rate since. From just over one million tons per annum in 1961, production rose to 1.5 million tons by 1981 but by 2007 had risen to 4 million tons. It is an impressive growth in production and in consumption. The latter is due to increased popularity of chocolate specially in USA but also in Europe. India and China are also consuming more but started from low per caput levels. There ia a great deal of further growth likely in the two markets.
The leading four producers have had a very impressive growth rate since the 1960s. Most of them were very minor producers, especially Indonesia until 1985. I remember helping allocating a lot of land to cocoa for Repelita IV on a Mission for FAO Investment Centre on the basis of strong forecasts for demand which fortunately have proven correct. Out of the four, Indonesia started last and from the lowest point.
Even more impressive is the fact that consumption grew so fast that the increased production took place at the same time as the price increase. The rate of income per ha was impressive from the beginning and compares very favourably with that of oil palm and is above the latter today.
African countries accountfor 77% of world exports,they areby far the largest supplier of cocoa to the world markets, followed by Asia and Oceania (17%) and the Americas (seven per cent). 'The cocoa market remains highly concentrated , with the top five countries accounting for almost 90% of world net exports whilst over 98% originated from the top ten countries during the five year period from 2001/02 to 2005/06. Cte dIvoire is the worlds leading exporter of cocoa, representing 45% of global net exports, followed by Ghana and Indonesia (18% and 15% respectively). With increased processing at origin, cocoa products now represent a slightly higher proportion of total cocoa exports in most cocoa producing countries.'(ICCO). Roughly 3 million tons are exported as beans, half a million ground and half a million as butter.
Some of the main cocoa producing countries remain heavily dependent on cocoa export earnings.Higher market prices during 2001-2003 led to increased cocoa export earnings. Consequently, shares of cocoa earnings surged in main cocoa producing countries, Cte dIvoire and Ghana, from 27% and 20% respectively in 2000 to 43% and 39% respectively in 2003. The decline in international prices experienced in 2004 and 2005 led to lower cocoa export earnings in many cocoa producing countries, as in Cte dIvoire, where the share fell to 30% in 2005. Cocoa became the first source of exports earnings (US$ 1.071 billion) in Ghana in 2004, surpassing gold (US$ 840 million). This degree of dependence on export earnings from cocoa is the sort of dependence that EU-ACP Action plan is trying to diminish, particularly because cocoa prices are very volatile.
According to ICCO, cocoa is mainly consumed as chocolate confectionery, chocolate coated products (biscuits, ice creams), or in other food products containing cocoa powder including beverages, cakes, snacks, etc. The principal ingredients in chocolate are cocoa paste, which imparts the basic chocolate flavour, cocoa butter which provides the characteristic mouth feel, sugar and a flavouring agent. Milk or milk powder is added to produce milk chocolate; nuts, biscuits and other fillings are added to make filled chocolates. Cocoa powder is used in a wide range of food products and beverages. The growth in cocoa consumption in the Far East and Eastern Europe is largely attributed to an increase in demand for products containing cocoa powder. Relatively small amounts of cocoa butter are used in cosmetic products and, more recently, new products are being manufactured from cocoa by-products in some cocoa producing countries.
Processing continues to be done in importing countries near centres of consumption in Europe and North America; the Netherlands and the United States have maintained their positions as the worlds two leading cocoa processing countries. Germany became the third largest cocoa grinding country towards the end of the review period, realizing very rapid increases in processing during recent years.
Prices (red line above)in 1982 were slightly above $2,000 ton and in 2007 stood at around $1,800 while production rose over the same period from 1.6 million to 4 million tons (blue line above).Prices have risen again to above 2,500. The burning issue of the day is what happens next. Before the collapse in the speculative commodity price hike in 2008, IOCC published forecasts through to 2012. These forecasts

Reference Scenario

Forecasts

Projections

2007/2008

2008/2009

2009/2010

2010/2011

2011/2012

2012/2013

SUPPLY AND DEMAND

World production, 000 tonnes

3,713

3,915

4,076

4,193

4,324

4,459

World grindings, 000 tonnes

3,727

3,805

3,900

4,024

4,154

4,285

WORLD COCOA STOCKS

End-of-season stock levels

1,536

1,607

1,742

1,869

1,995

2,125

Surplus/Deficit

-51

71

135

126

127

129

Stocks-to-grindings ratio (%)

41%

42%

45%

46%

48%

50%

COCOA PRICES

SDR/tonnes (2006/2007)

1,374

1,446

1,414

1,343

1,297

1,257

World production Value (millions SDRs in 2006/2007)

5,101

5,662

5,763

5,632

5,607

5,605

The forecastwas for a modest 10% increase in production and in prices but we live in times where forecasts are difficult. . Given past trends, the forecast is entirely resaonable and is a change over the previous ones. However, we are in the midst of a depression which may advsersely impact on cocoa consumption. In particular, there may be a short term impact during 2009 and to a lesser extent 2010 that would bring developments closer to the original forecasts. We would not actually be surprised if prices were to fall in the face of mounting stocks due to falling consumption in the main markets.
In the longer term, increased consumption in India and China is very likely. In established markets, chocolate may actually benefit from adverse publicity on the includion of sugar in congectionery and formulations will tend to favour higher cocoa content.
If our reservationsprove true, IOCC should revise their forecasts and investors be vary of expectations made during the hike last year.
Nevertheless, cocoa at $1,200 per ha still looks like a good investment for farmers provided they avoid farming systems that are too high input which makes them risky. Having said that, we are aware that CDC achieved high yield rates in Irian Jaya, Indonesia with a high input approach. The average tield rate for low or normal inputs is around 0.76 tons per ha. There were reports of CDC being able to achieve up to 3 tons per ha.
.
The chart above traces price development by the month in 2009 and 2010. The bull market has thus far been reigning supreme and Armajaro still setting the pace at roughly twice normal trend. The same is the case for many commodities and there are new indications that prices may be in for a fall.
Cocoa beans - Monthly Price - Commodity Prices Month Value May-10 3,165.75 Jun-10 3,230.83 Jul-10 3,229.55 Aug-10 3,071.71 Sep-10 2,874.98 Oct-10 2,909.66 index mundi
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