Forum Activity for @Brad Churchill

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Keith;

While I can't speak for the woman at the event, I CAN tell you that as a chocolate maker and a chocolatier, I have spent 5 long years educating people about the differences between my business and other chocoaltiers, as well asthe nuances in flavour that cocoa beans create. Making your own chocolate gives the chocolatier infinitely more control over the quality and taste of the final product.

Also, the industry in general has created an image in the average consumer's mind that chocolatiers make chocolate. Case in point: I recently watched a chocolatier television pour chips into a double boiler, and proclaim "this is how you make chocolate". WTF???? Are you kidding me???

Is wanting to differentiate your products from that of your peers "snooty"? I don't think so - especially when you have the potential to create a product of a quality that far surpasses your peers. Anyone with minimal training (aka homemakers, and grannies) can take a mediocre chocolate and make goodchocolates (chocolate confections). However let's see the same unskilled "chocolatier" acquire good beans, roast them perfectly, remove the shells, and grind them intoa perfectly smooth, decadent chocolate BEFORE making confections out of them. The end result can be absolutely stellar.

IF quality matters to you as you claim, then I would suggest that you definitely seek out snooty companies that make their own chocolate.

Cheers

Brad

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I'm not an authority, just a chocolate lover who is fascinated by thegrowing, making, tasting of chocoolate and the whole experience. That said, I was REALLY disappointed (but I totally blieve it) to learn about the ridiculous snootiness of the chocolate maker in question. I don't care if they "re-melt" the chocolate. If we could rely only on bean-to-bar, then none of us would be eating it. Recchiuti makes great chocolate. Period. So do many others. Enough with the snootiness. What's next? "My mother can beat up your mother?" Quality matters to me, and I'm glad there's attention to that from many more chocolatiers.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Alan makes a good point. There are times when I want a bonbon or truffle but there are times when an absolutely plain bar is satisfying, complex, sophisticated and excellent - one is not better or higher level than the other. I make them all and find that plain, bonbon or truffle satisfy different taste needs/desires at different times.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Alan,I agree with you...I wasn't thinking about the fact that well-made chocolate can stand on its own and indeed doesn't need another level. I was primarily referring to the business of couverture chocolate, which I think is what the original post was referring to (maybe not?) Callebaut does produce its own line of chocolate bars for cooking, eating, etc. But its couverture chocolate goes out and is converted to bars, pralines, and other delightful delicacies.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I was with you until the part where you said that "some produce chocolate from the bean while others take it to the next level."I think that there is plenty of excellent chocolate these days that doesn't need to be taken to a "next level." In such cases, though confections made with this excellent chocolate may be delicious and amazing, the flavor of the original chocolate, I believe, can certainly stand on its own. Put simply, why do we have to say that one is better than the other? The way I'd like to put it is that both can be equally amazing, but in different ways and for different reasons.Alan

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

My two-cents on the topic: I've interviewed several top chocolatiers in Belgium for my website and none of them made their own chocolate from the bean. in Belgium, there are two companies which provide the bulk of couverture chocolate: Belcolade and Callebaut. The cocoa beans go there, they process into liquid, drops, etc. and ship it out to some of the best chocolatiers in the world who then take the chocolate and make their own magic with it. I haven't talked to any of them who didn't tell me where they get their chocolate from. In fact, at one producers, I saw bags lying around with the source company's logo on it. I think it's a given in Belgium that some produce chocolate from the bean while others take it to the next level.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Sandra;This is quite a long thread, and there's a lot of good points made throughout. Of the many on this forum, this entire thread is a worthwhile read.Cheers.Brad.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

It definitely seems a bit shallow to me and just bad business practice. No one gets to the top by putting others down or their products. That is how I feel as there is enough business for all of us.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

From what I hear using "invert sugar" is another way of extending the shelf life of ganache. Wikipedia tells me that invert sugar has lower water activity than sucrose and this is why it imparts a longer shelf life.Not sure what "longer shelf life means". Two months for Joseph Shmidt without preservatives seems surprisingly long. I would love to see their list of ingredients.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I love that quote!

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Agree that TCHO is apparently the culprit, not THEO.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I think that by accident people have been referring to the original "bad-mouther" as THEO, when in actuality it is TCHO. I know some of the folks from Theo and I really doubt they would ever be this disrespectful to chocolatiers.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I would love to tell THEO that the only REAL chocolate maker is GOD, they are just one of those people that roast, shell and crush so that people can buy it from them to make confections. No offence meant to chocolate makers other than those rude ones among the nice ones. I am tired and in a sarcastic mood, forgive me.
updated by @Ilana: 09/07/15 17:45:39

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I thought she was created as being one of the first in the US to add unique flavors to chocolate? Maybe she was the one who popularized it to the general public?
updated by @Sonya: 06/12/15 06:03:04

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I agree somewhat ... BUT there is a skill that requires knowing about what to "melt" into your chocolate (and what chocolate you are "melting" in the first place). It is kind of like saying all coffeemakers are the same because it is all coffee. But obviously there are many different types of coffee and ways to blend them to inspire different tastes. My favorite chocolatier is Katrina Markoff, founder of Vosges. She was the first in the US to really think about chocolate in artisanal form. She is featured today on girl crush. http://girlcrushoftheday.blogspot.com/2010/02/katrina-markoff.html

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

To create an edible piece of art -visually& tastefully- skillfully choosing the best ingredients. That is a true "chocolatier".

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I have come to the chocolate making world late in my life. I have been an artist, an engineer and a policy maker. I came into the chocolate world for the purpose of helping Jamaican farmers get a better price for their chocolate and to see if I can start a sustainable business both in Oakland, CA as well as stimulate sustainable business in Jamaica because as a policy maker I have been preaching sustainable development for decades. I have enjoyed learning how to ferment and hope that sometime before I am too feeble, I can focus some years on the variations in the art of fermenting.When I was in art school, I studied ceramic art and painting. In ceramics we made our own clay. As a painter, I didn't make my own paint. I never thought myself less of an artist as a painter because of that. I think it's interesting that technical wrangling over materials didn't occur in the fine art world. The focus was on the quality of the final art work.The real interest I have as an artist/engineer/sustainable development advocate/chocolatemaker and chocolatier is in the quality of the final product and transparency to the public about what process went into it so that we can compete fairly (is that an oxymoron?). If someone's final product is superb and they control every aspect from bean to bar to bonbon, that deserves recognition. If someone's final product is superb and they use chocolate processed by someone else, it doesn't reduce the quality of their final taste treat. It does reflect a difference in investment and complexity in control of the many elements. But like a painter, the chocolate artisan who chooses his/her supplies thoughtfully to capture the qualities of those supplies in their final more complex product is no less an artisan than someone who makes it from beans.
updated by @Nancy Nadel: 01/27/15 23:29:06

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Alan, I'm surprised to see this post because I thought back in March you knew about me making chocolate from Jamaican beans.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Ah, sisterly quarrels! You gotta love them!

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

" Re-melters" are responsible for most of the sales aren't they

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Unless you're talking about a large company like Godiva or Ghirardelli ( http://adwido.com/view_content?vkey=5a5999faf08d326074082b4c18a777c2 ), you may just benefit for publicizing this company with your experience.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I just came across this thread, and it made me chuckle. I put up a blog post on this very subject a while back, where I articulated my objections (so I'll spare you now). I'm positive Tcho isn't the only place where I've run into this attitude, but they're the ones that sparked my reaction. Sigh...some people.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I just started reading the posts and haven't made it all the way through. I am a "re-melter". I wish I could start from the begining (sometimes). However I find the sampling fun and I really like it when the shipment comes in and sitting before me are hundreds and hundreds of pounds of chocolate. It is truly a joy to take a wonderful product and add your own personal touch for your clients.It is even better to catch their thoughts with just the flash in their eyes! A potter starts with a hunk of clay (made by someone else) and turns it into something wonderful. If this is what a re-melter is, thank you. But I prefer the term enhancer:To make greater, as in value and taste; improve with sophistication

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I also take offense at this new term "re-melter". Many of us are artisans and it is all about beauty and flavor delivery. Frankly, I have yet to find a good "bean to bar" chocolate that was very palatable. No, I have not had many.But this new bean to bar industry is like the coffee bean roasters of the 1980's. I wish them as much luck. Maybe in 20 years everyone here in the US will be familiar with and prefer GOOD chocolate! Especially as the level of understanding is raised.Who really cares where the chocolate comes from? My customers don't. They just want an exceptional taste, across the board, that is consistent, smooth and exciting. Why get an attitude about the two different types of chocolatier?When I lived in Africa, I learned a term in Yoruba thet translates as "I see that you are working and it is good for all of us". There was absolutely no judgement on the work itself.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

So what are you called if you re-melt and mix a couple of kinds of chocolate from same company or different company?I have melted 100's of pounds myself and am not offended, I do temper it, decide which of my antique molds to use, how it should be decorated and packaged. So I didn't grind the beans-oh well.I think that would be called a chocolate manufacturer!

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

While many other Chocolatiers use Chocolate made by American, Belgian, or Swiss Companies.Just because I use a chocolate product and re-temper it doesn't necessarily make me a re-melter.That is just a simple way of saying and yes, degrading and derogatory statement, that what I do is not skilled.Best Regards,Shawn Alter - Chocolatier/Owner The Chocolate ButterflySenior Marketing Director Hake Plastic Molds & Equipment

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I think you shouldn't bother about this at all. It's their business not yours. Just don't listen to them? that's all;)______________________________ cohiba cigars

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

This is a "hot" topic, and I enjoyed this immensely. I humbly consider myself an artisan "Fondeur" who prides herself in making Belgian styled pralines. I, at times, have tried to blend different varietal chocolates to what ever ingredients (fresh) I create. Of late, I have been creating exotic ingredients and coming up with my own concoctions, that turn out to be marketable. Its not only the knack of a chocolatiere to marry the blended cacao, but to be able to marry the ingredient (ie: herb, fruit or nut), and the cacao, to the palate of the consumer that makes an artisan!

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Since most of the chocolat i eat is usually dark and in its bar/block form; Callebaut, Cluizel, Cote d'Or, Lindt, Leonidas, Debauve & Gallais, Teuscher, etc...(once in a while i do enjoy some with fillings), I just assumed that most of the chocolat companies in the states were fondeurs.I think the person might have been trying to tout the superiority of her product, small barrels make big noises, but i would take it with a grain of salt.I have tasted a few chocolats here that were done from bean to block and wished they had just been fondeurs; the chocolat was most unripe, to be kind.Just do what you love and people will enjoy the end product regardless.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Not to beat a dead horse.. But I was just selecting my booth for the upcoming NY food show and noticed the description that Tcho used. Note that this is directly from Tcho, and not some employee who was overly proud as was suggested:TCHO is serious about chocolate. "We arent just re-melters" (like the majority of people who work with chocolate), we are manufacturers, with our very own factory capable of producing 4000 metric tons per yearThat suggests that re-melter is the party line at Tcho - and 4000 metric tons certainly doesnt hold with their self description as small.Just saying

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

One of my sources is a book by Minifie called Chocolate, Cocoa and Confectionary - considered by many in the confectionary industry as the standard reference "bible". I also have others.This discussion is going sideways. Until you can tell me definitively that the total sugar content of a BUTTERCREAM truffle center I refer to in my internet material is less than 75% and still has a shelf life of longer than 14 days, I stand by what I say.You seemed to miss the part where I write about reducing the dairy content. I've pasted the text here for your reference:"Chocolatiers can get away with extending the shelf life of their product by lowering the dairy content, increasing the amount of sugar in the product, adding alcohol, in the center, and even using preservatives."At no point do I say they all must use preservatives, and once again, I reiterate that I refer to BUTTERCREAM and not ganache. Ganache does not contain butter, and has MUCH less milk fat to go rancid. In fact, a ganache can easily be made with skim milk and no cream at all, thereby extending the room temperature shelf life.Further to that you mention that an enrobed ganache "SHOULD" last 3 weeks. The term "should" is synonymous with "hypothetically". So... Sure. Maybe under the ideal conditions. However, can you guarantee that every customer is going to keep their confections in ideal conditions?? Why risk it? Why even tell your customer that??The first person who eats a bad chocolate, gets sick, and complains to the media and/or health department because they were told it "should" last that long will play a big part in finishing your business off. It's not worth the risk.My educated 2 cents for what it's worth.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Actually Its mostly about the water activity of the center. Unbound water will definitely cause troubles at the 2 week range, but confections can certainly have a much longer shelf life than that. Although its not my thing, many famous chocolatiers use corn syrup in a ganache which lowers the water activity dramatically and extends the shelf life without the use of preservatives. The Joseph Shmidt confections that Whole Foods used to sell had a 2 month shelf life with no preservatives. No Idea how they accomplished that. Knipshildt also has a very long shelf life without preservatives.The easy way is to say "eat it within a week" so that you are covered. However, when you learn the science behind the food you learn that there are proper techniques to creating high quality confections in a way that protects against mold growth.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Lana;Thanks for asking the questions.In answer to your first question, it isn't misleading at all. In fact it furthers my point about the incestuous nature of the chocolate industry. Hersheys is supposed to be a chocolate maker, yet they are purchasing bulk chocolate from someone else... What's up??? In fact without looking at the recipe, who's to say it isn't the same?With regard to your second question, confection centers that do not have preservatives, or at least 75% sugar, or alcohol, will go bad regardless of whether or not they are enrobed. I've actually bitten into mouldy enrobed truffle centers. When you have a cream and butter mixture sitting at room temperature for 7 days, take a whif. You'll find that in many cases it's gone bad, IF your sugar content is less than 75% of the content. In our case we don't recommend that people refrigerate their confections OR their bars. Chocolate is notorious for absorbing odors and moisture from its surroundings. It won't take more than a day or two for a real nice truffle to smell like left over roast beef, or that plate of garlic fettucini you thought was covered. In fact even Bernard C himself says that his confections should be consumed within 14 days of purchase. Again, the sugar content is the magic key, and that number is standard in commercial food preparation.
updated by @Brad Churchill: 09/09/15 19:08:55

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Alan;I use cacau as the plural term in reference to "a ton of cacau" as opposed to "a ton of cocoa".For some reason I have it stuck in my head that when I hear cocoa by itself, I think of cocoa powder. I guess I believe that if I think that way, I'm sure others may possibly as well.As a result I use "cocoa bean" as singular, and "cacau" as a plural reference.One of my quirks, I guess.Best RegardsBrad.
updated by @Brad Churchill: 01/26/15 02:56:54

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Hi Clay;To the best of my knowledge Bernard C doesn't have control over the beans used. A couple of his staff were in my shop the other day buying some bars, and were complaining about the latest shipment of chocolate and the smoky flavour it has. They were also mentioning that there was talk in the company of finding another supplier due to the inconsistency they have been receiving in the last while.I am also aware that in the past he's purchased chocolate from Qzina when his main supplier has run low. Apparently a couple of the varieties of chocolate Qzina offers for sale are very similar to what BC uses.At the end of the year I will in fact switch my strategy, and begin explaining WHY making one's own chocolate is better than buying a bulk product, regardless of whether or not the purchaser has control over the cocoa/cocoa butter content.In fact, even to that extent, I don't believe he has control over the type of cocoa butter used either. There are many different qualities of cocoa butter on the market, and even differing qualities from a single company! I know of 3 types alone from Cargill - my current supplier - and each smells different and imparts a different flavour in the chocolate when used. I HAVE to specify the exact type when I place my order.With regard to "fighting the icon", it's a strategy that has required effort and careful use of terms and phrases in order to not step over the slander/libel line, but is making a big difference in the cash register. It appears that people like to learn, like to think of themselves as ethical and moral purchasers, and for the most part like how open and honest we are about the industry. In fact that curiosity can be directly translated into the 2.5 million hits to my website in just the last 9 months.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Brad:Bernard C has chocolate made to his specs by the Barry-Callebaut company. I would be interested in knowing whether the chocolate is made in Belgium or in St Hyacinth which is where B-C has a manufacturing plant in Canada (they also have one in St Albans, Vermont).However, it may be true that Bernard C DOES get involved in selecting the beans for the chocolate he has made. However, the language is ambiguous and leading.I don't know how much it's worth fighting this but figuring out a meaningful point of differentiation that the consumer can quickly and easily comprehend that does not directly compare you with this icon. Not easy I know, but more valuable to you in the short run than fighting the misconception.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Sam:This is a very strong example of how stepping back from the process to re-examine it can reveal meaningful differentiators. Forget the notion of "bean-to-bar" (I notice that you used) but, "We make chocolate from cocoa beans we roast ourselves" is an easy to comprehend concept and the analogy to coffee is good, though imperfect, as we know. However, most consumers can probably tell that there is a difference between roasting coffee beans, grinding them, and making coffee than buying roasted (and perhaps already ground) beans from someone else and making coffee with that.This works for you and for many others. Artisan in London works from cocoa liquor which means someone else roasts and grinds the beans so this distinction doesn't work for them.:: Clay

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Hi Brad,That does seem pretty blatantly misleading. We have had a couple of companies down here try similar marketing, but so far, they have been called out on it, and they have also been much younger companies, which makes it easier to do so.I can see how an established larger company marketing in that way can be very troublesome for you.Best,AlanP.S. Just out of interest, why do you spell cacao with a "u"? To the best of my knowledge, "cacau" is Portuguese and not English.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Clay;I'm not even going to go there. For 25 years here in Calgary the predominant chocolatier has been Bernard Callebaut (grandson of the founder of the Callebaut factory in Belgium).The average consumer here in Calgary is still reeling from the bomb I've dropped by publicly stating that Mr. Callebaut does NOT make the chocolate he uses in his confections!Just the fact that I have bars made with the same recipe but from different cocoa beans has been enough of an uphill battle here in Calgary. To try and differentiate region and plantation would send our customers into a full out tailspin - at least for now.To give you and the general public an idea of what I'm up against, I've uploaded an advertisement that he put in a local, very popular food magazine here in Calgary. This is the kind of misconception that I LOVE to preach about, and while it doesn't say specifically that he makes chocolate..... well.... I'd be interested in your opinion given the fact that he buys bulk chocolate and has absolutely no control over the beans or cacau used in it.Happy Viewing All!

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

There's no conflict here - milk and sugar are ingredients that chocolate manufacturers purchase to make finished chocolate, whether they start from wet beans (seeds), dry beans, nibs, or liquor. Sugar and milk are added during what is usually called the refining step, irrespective of type of refiner used (e.g., roll refiner or integrated refiner/conche).The entire purpose of conching is to make the chocolate edible on two fronts: physical (texture) and taste (removing unwanted flavors, developing desirable flavors).AW: In the UK, most people use the word bonbons or chocolates, not confections? No worries, for the purposes of this context they are equivalent terms.BC: You think these are hard, try moving people off of "single origin" which is meaningless when the "single" origin is an entire country. I prefer to use "named origin" (or just "origin") where the origin that is being named can be huge (a blend of beans from an entire country) all the way down to a single plantation.

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

I would imagine that you would conche it further in order to crush the sugar crystals too. I've tasted various forms of liquor and find it very coarse as well.Clay's clarification up above was excellent. Now the uphill battle of teaching the consumer, many chocolatiers, and their employees. Sigh......;-)Brad

Chocolatiers = Re-melters?

Posted in: Opinion

Fair point on 100% bars (which we do) but in any case we still conche and refined the liquor as it's very coarse in the form we buy it and conching helps make it more edible too.Speaking for the UK, most people called bonbon, chocolates and not confections.