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I looked a little more into cacao genetics, so here are some thoughts on this issue as posted on my blog . Let me know what you think...
When entering the world of high-quality chocolates you immediately get confronted with a number of categories in order to understand or classify a chocolate. There is the technical aspect of the chocolate manufacturer: roasting, conching, adding cocoa butter. But all of this can only enhance or suppress the flavors that come from the cacao bean itself. Prior to fermentation and drying it typically comes with two major labels: geographical origin, and cacao variety. At first that seemed to make sense to me, but the more I think (and read) about it, the less I buy it.
Geographical origin. Lets for a millionth time stress the wine analogy: It is clear that different climates and heights (as well as different soils) could have a big impact on the final fruit and its flavors. All cacao, however, anyway growth in the tropics. Sure, there will be differences between the equator and 20 north or south, but its not that the tropical climate in Asia, Africa and South America differs a lot in its major factors being sun, humidity, temperature. So is it the soil? Honestly, I doubt it. It might play a role but the soil probably varies nearly as much within a continent as it does between continents. So why should an African cacao taste like X , an Asian one like Y , and an American one like Z ? Doesnt make sense to me. My guess would rather be that different cacao tree varieties have been established and evolved in different places.
So now we come to cacao varieties and thats another puzzling thing. There is Criollo and Forastero, and Trinitario which is supposed to be a mix of both. This classification dates back to the 1940s and has now become the standard for categorizing cacao varieties in the business.
Too bad that it turns out to be much more complicated. For many fruits and vegetables, varieties are fairly well classified, meanwhile of course genetically as well. Not for cacao. This brings practical issues such as how to check if a 100% Criollo bar is really 100% Criollo if you actually cannot decide on what tree still produces pure Criollo beans. Thinking of high-end chocolates it probably also means that the classification is too coarse to account for the huge variety of possible flavor differences.
Over the last decade scientists have tried to use genetics to better understand where cacao comes from, how it evolved, and what the different current (and past) varieties are (and were). In 2008, a group of scientists presented a thorough genetic analysis of cacao bean varieties from South and Central America and concluded that it makes sense to at least distinguish 10 varieties. They labeled them Maraon, Curaray, Criollo, Iquitos, Nanay, Contamana, Amelonado, Purs, Nacional, and Guiana. Besides Criollo, you might have heard of Amelonado and Nacional. All other terms are not common use (yet?).
Those findings do not necessarily contradict the common three categories Criollo, Trinitario, and Forastero, but they strongly indicate that especially a category as Trinitario could be far too broad to do the diversity of its members justice. Or what do you think?
References:
- Motamayor JC, Lachenaud P, da Silva e Mota JW, Loor R, Kuhn DN, et al. (2008) " Geographic and Genetic Population Differentiation of the Amazonian Chocolate Tree (Theobroma cacao L) ". PLoS ONE 3(10): e3311.doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0003311
- Louis E. Grivetti, Howard-Yana Shapiro (2009) "Chocolate - History, Culture, Heritage"
Beautiful Chocolates- Please leave your Website Link and a Photo if possible!
By Lavinia, 2014-01-18
Hi Everyone,
I am currently on a quest to find someof the most Beautiful Chocolates ?
Feel free to send me any pics and any links of your sites, it is for a blog I am doing, I am mainly looking at Truffles and Filled Chocolates, so not really hollow shells
Thanks in advance x
Kumba Cocoa Cooperative is a group of Kumba Cocoafarmers , we have available more than 2000 tonnes ofcocoa beans ready for sale , our cocoa is raw and welldreid ready to be shipped out by express shipment orthrough cargo shipment you can give me a call at 0023793239874 or send us an e-mail at kumbacocoa.co@gmail.com . We welcome small and bulk buyers to send us their inquiries so that we can build a long termbusiness relationship .
My original post is here : http://frontrangereviews.blogspot.com/
Hey everyone!
I plan on buying pre-made truffle shells for my truffles. I'm not sure which ones to get since everyone I talk to has different brands.
What do you guys think about Chocoduc truffle shells?
Also, I seen Keller, Callebaut, and Pastry 1 (Paris Gourment brand) ----> any thoughts on these as well?
Is there really a difference and does it matter which one to get? Do people typically focus just on price?
Sorry if this is a very basic question for you professional chocolatiers out there : )
Thank You!
Our Mokaya Chocolate Tempering Machine campaign just started on Indiegogo:
I tasted a lot of excellent dark bars this year!
So I'm happy!
Heres a list of my favourites.
Depending on my mood, the order can change.
- Sznt Tibor: San Cristobal Crudo (and more bars of his collection)
- Dandelion: Maya Mountain Belize
- Soma: Old School, Bachelors Hall and El Vigia
- Felchlins new couverture Costa Rica
- Bar Au Chocolat: Sambirano, Chiapas and Duarte Province
- Wilkies: Tumbes and Amazonas
- Marou: Treasure Island
- Tejas: Capistrano, Valero and Presidio
- Rogue: Balao
- Valrhona: Loma Sotavento
Maybe I forgot one...or two...
Amsterdam is a beauty, no doubt about that. But it is clearly no chocolate celebrity like Paris or Brussels. In a way that's a shame (after all it got the biggest cocoa harbor in the world). However, as already mentioned on this site quite some time ago, things are getting better and better. Selflessly, I hence decided to give Amsterdam candy makers and chocolatiers a try and blog about it (it's touch, I know). With similarly dubious excusses I also started my own blog.
I started with Amsterdam's two most popular chocolatiers: Puccini Bomboni and Unlimited Delicious . Both have been around for many years and follow fairly different concepts.
Sweet, pretty chocolates at Puccini Bomboni (Amsterdam, NL)
Puccini makes impressive hand-made bonbons. Impressive in two ways: they are beautiful (see picture!) and MASSIVE. Literally. Every bonbon weights about three times as much as a traditionally shaped one. Economically that seems to be a smart move, as it drastically reduced the labor needed per weight. The size, however, really obstructs the pleasure of eating them for me. One of their chocolates and Im done.
Most have fairly classical ganache fillings. Some of the fruitier ones are very fruity, which I liked (plum pruim for example). In blogs and forums I found many people mentioning fancy, non-standard flavors, often refering to their pepper bonbon as a sign for crazyness. But every chocolatier nowadays does spices and other stuff, so I would say there is not much original about that. I know, I sound a bit negative. In fact, the bonbons are not bad at all! Its rather that I expected something more. My main criticism is that Puccini bonbons are too big and lack finesse (or however youd call it). Too rough, unsubtle.
Cakes and chocolates at Unlimited Delicious (Amsterdam, NL)
In several respects it's quite the opposite if it comes to Unlimited Delicious . Their pieces look less original then the Puccini ones, but I find that they are nice and small, which makes them better to eat than the Puccini monster bonbons.
I tasted quite a lot of their bonbons by now and they generally are professionally made, technically flawless bonbons, mostly with silky textured ganache fillings.Tasty and creamy, nothing to complain about you could think. But somehow... I really miss some more courage, bravery, or excitement. Many bonbons are just too well-behaved and hence on the boring side. Not all, though. Some are great and delicious, like their long-time classic "Rosemary Sea Salt". If you happen to be closeby some day, give it a try.
Finally my first homemade chocolate from bean-to-bar! The cacao came from the province of Aurora, Philippines. Fermented and dried the beans and then toasted and grinded/blended to make it into a bar. Read more here:
http://pinoychocophile.blogspot.com/2013/11/my-own-bean-to-bar-chocolate-making.html
