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The Mark Hotel in Manhattan (no longer a part of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group, located on E 77th St.) has regularly hosted wine classes directed by Master Sommelier Richard Dean.In 2004, the program was expanded to showcase the pairing of wine and chocolate and to do so it enlisted the support of Valrhona and the winemaker Louis Jadot. Representing Valrhona were Mr. Bernard Duclos, the director of US operations for Valrhona, Kim O'Flaherty, their US Corporate Pastry Chef, and Frederic Bau, Executive Pastry Chef for Valrhona worldwide and the Director of l'Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona. Maitre Sommelier de France Olivier Masmondet represented Maison Louis Jadot.The evening was divided into two parts. A four-course pairing of various Louis Jadot and other wines distributed by Kobrand (a major importer), with four different Valrhona chocolates was followed by dinner downstairs in Mark's Restaurant. The Wine Tasting After receiving instructions on how to taste wine together with chocolate (gather the melted mass of chocolate on the tongue, take a small sip of the wine and mix the wine and chocolate together on the tongue to marry the flavors) we got down to the wine and chocolate (all "grand cru") pairings. They were: Bouvey Ladubuy Brut (NV) with Jivara 40% milk. We were given glasses of the chilled Bouvey, a sparkling wine as an aperitif. For the tasting, the wine had been allowed to sit in the glass for a while and warm up. Rather than being sparkling it was more effervescent with tiny, not too energetic bubbles. When mixed into the mass of Jivara in the mouth, the tiny bubbles were really delightful and the flavors of the wine - grassy and slightly citrusy - worked well with the strong malty and molasses flavors of the Jivara. An auspicious start. Cotes-du-Rhone Chateau Mont-Redon 2002 with Manjari 64% dark. Although the tasting notes for the chocolate mention strong tastes of red fruit, the strongest flavors we got from the chocolate were faint spicy hints reminiscent of nutmeg and cinnamon. The wine, which is a blend of 60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, and 20% other grapes, had a spicy aroma and peppery notes but tasted a little young and with a slight astringency. The wine and the chocolate, with it spice notes complemented each other well. Saint-Emillion Jean-Pierre Mouiex 2002 with pur Caraibe 66% dark. Mr. Mouiex is the winemaker for Chateau Petrus, and this Saint-Emillion was made with 100% Merlot grapes in what has been called on the best years for Saint-Emillion in recent memory. The wine was a deep ruby color with a slightly musty bouquet with floral high notes but seemed thin and light. The addition of the chocolate - with a mild sweetness, nutty notes with a hint of coffee/mocha - seemed to "open up" the wine. The earthiness of the chocolate complemented the bouquet of the wine. Oporto Ruby Taylor with Araguani 72% dark. Port is the oldest wine appellation in the world, created in 1729. Ruby ports (typically the youngest of the ports) were developed as light, fruity aperitif wines to be drunk before dinner. This ruby had notes of raisins, pepper, and spice that complemented the Araguani with its licorice and raisin notes with aromas of warm bread and honey.The tasting was tag-teamed by Messrs. Bau and Masmondet. Frederic would describe, in his imperfect English, the chocolate and Olivier would describe the wine and his logic in making each particular wine choice. Both acknowledged the difficulty of doing this, repeating that each of us was free to agree or disagree with each choice. The consensus at our table was the the Ruby Port/Araguani pairing was the most successful, with the long finish of each among its most salient and appealing characteristics.

Halfway through the wine pairings.Interestingly, the feelings about the other pairings seemed to revolve around people's perceptions of the wines, not the chocolates. If a person did not like the wine, they did not like the pairing, irrespective of their feelings about the chocolate by itself. Most unusual was the pairing of the Bouvey with the milk chocolate, but that is in accord with my experience in the matter (milk chocolates can go quite well with white wines). The pairing would not have worked with the cold Bouvey, which would have been much crisper with stronger, "tighter" bubbles. By letting it warm up, the bubbles "relaxed" making it possible to taste them togeter. I often pair milk chocolates with the Italian sparkling wine Prosecco which is generally lighter (less alcoholic and therefore less sharp) with smaller, less energetic bubbles. The Dinner Mark's Restaurant in the Mark Hotel is an elegant place to eat. I had dinner with my wife there in the past six months and enjoyed not only the fare produced by Andrew Chase, the Executive Chef, but also the desserts produced by Chris Broberg. (ex- of Petrossian and now at Cafe Gray in the new Time Warner Center; the current pastry chef at the Mark is Erwin Schroettner.)The dinner, conceived of Mr. Bau and executed with the assistance of Mr. Chase and his staff as well as two assistants Mr. Bau coaxed down from Montreal, was truly an indulgent chocolate experience composed of eight courses not including petits-fours! (I learned later that this was reduced by five courses from a similar set menu prepared recently in Montreal by Mr. Bau, Olivier de Montigny, and Cyril Jamet. I cannot imagine what five more courses, even with smaller portions, would have been like.)During the wine tasting, Frederic explained that it was his intent to showcase the chocolate in each of the courses. In most instances, the chocolate would be used in a classic French style -- with the chocolate replacing some or all of the butter used to finish a sauce, giving it its final silky texture. But the taste of chocolate would be front and center. Frederic also told us to expect some surprises, and indeed the menu that was circulated in the invitation was different in many respects from the menu that was printed and placed at table. And even that menu was subject to last-minute changes.Spoiler: The menu was both audacious and ambitious with touches of brilliance. However, even though these dishes had been made and served several times (five I was told afterwards), the consensus among our group was that each probably had to be made many additional times to take out the rough edges, specifically the balance between the amount of chocolate and the other elements of each dish -- the chocolate unnecessarily dominated rather than supported most dishes.The Amuse Bouche -- foie gras gelee with Jivara (milk) chocolate sauce -- immediately demonstrated Frederic's intention not only to surprise us but to make sure the chocolate was front and center. It was not described on the menu, but was at the table as it was served. Although I am not a big fan of foie gras (or other organ meats and offal in general), the gelee turned out to be a great vehicle for conveying the flavor of the foie gras with a new texture - when you could fish it out from under the chocolate sauce, which was also excellent, though too abundant.The Amuse was followed by a "Duo of Jumbo Prawn and Red Mullet; Polenta Sticks; Red Pepper Confit Tapenade; Sauce Americaine flavored with Pur Caraibe (66%); and Crisp Leeks." Separately every one of the elements of this dish was extremely well prepared and tasty, with the red pepper confit tapenade tying things together very nicely. However, the chocolate sauce (a true sauce not a jus or reduction) was too heavy and cloying for the rest of the flavors -- especially given the quantity served. Lightening up the sauce with some fish stock and serving less of it would, in my opinion, have tightened the dish up considerably. This was paired with a 2002 Saint Veran "Domaine de la Chapelle aux Loups."Next was "Pan Seared Sea Scallops marinated with Passion Fruit; Bombay Curry Sauce with Manjari (64%) Coconut Emulsion; Caramel Mango Confit." Of the entree dishes, this was the most successful, in my opinion. The scallops were cooked perfectly and the herbal tang of passion fruit adding a nice side note. The Bombay Curry sauce was not hot at all, and the balance of the chocolate and the coconut was just right. When applied sparingly to the scallops, the combination would have made me ask for seconds had I not known what was left to come. However, it was the caramel mango confit that was the real stand out in this dish (we did ask for an additional side dish of this one). The sweetness of the caramelized mango treated like a chutney with raisins and cracked coriander seeds was addictive. If you're one of those people who like traditional mango chutney with cheese you should insist that they bottle this stuff. The reason we asked for seconds was to see if we could improve it by adding some of the cocoa nibs that were scattered on the table. These made the chutney transcendental by adding an interesting texture and providing a long lingering - and understated - aftertaste of cocoa. We were also given a side of the sauce which we decided would be great on deep fried ice cream after dinner at an Indian restaurant. This course was paired with a 2001 Chassagne Montrachet.This was followed by "Risotto Beijing Style; Smoked Pork Belly perfumed with Shallots and Star Anise; Emulsion of Parmesan and Jivara (milk) Chocolate; Araguani (72%) and Parmesan shavings." Of the entree courses this was the least successful because the overpowering presence of the chocolate in the risotto made it seem a lot like a chocolate rice pudding. The saltiness of the pork belly (as a garnish as well as diced in the risotto) and the parmesan helped act as a foil to the sweetness and heavyhandedness of the chocolate. A smaller portion size would also have helped. This course was paired with the Saint-Emillion used in the tasting.The Cheese Course was a giant roquefort truffle, described: "Roque and Roll; Araguani (72%) Ganache; shaved Roquefort; grilled Country Bread; and roasted Bananas." The truffle was huge -- somewhere between a golf ball and a pool ball. More than any other course, this one took the theme of chocolate and pushed it right to the limit and maybe a little past. Notwithstanding that criticism, it was actually very, very good. There was just too much of it and the only change I would make (apart from making it smaller than a golf ball) would be to increase the ratio of bread and cheese to the ganache. Interestingly, half of our table thought that this would work better with a milder chevre while the other half argued going in the other direction and using a much stinkier more pungent stilton. This course was paired with a 2000 Barbera "La Court" by Michele Chiarlo.The sweet Mise en Bouche was a "Chuao Chocolate Nectar with Cocoa Nib Foam." This was a light and refreshing intermezzo served in a tall shot glass that made reference to the fact that in pre-Conquest Aztec times, the foam on top of the drink is what was prized. Small, not too sweet, cool, and refreshing. Oh, and the use of a different chocolate provided much needed variety.The first(!) dessert course was "The Milky Way; Jivara Yogurt Cream; Black Cherries and Cranberries sauteed with Lemon Thyme; Crisp Chocolate Tuile." This course proved that Mr. Bau is an accomplished pastry chef who not only know what he is doing, but has done it hundreds if not thousands of times. The chocolate yogurt cream is what every cup of "lite" non-fat yogurt in the dairy case dreams that it will grow up to be - all the sugar, all the fat -- and sublimely perfect. The sourness and chewy texture of the cherries and blackberries was a great foil for the sweet/sour creaminess of the milk chocolate yogurt and the tuile added the necessary height as well as a crunchy texture. This course was paired with the Taylor Ruby Port served during the tasting.

The Milky WayThe second dessert (and penultimate) course was "Trio of Valrhona Grand Crus Gelee; Apple and Quince Lasagna and Apple Jus flavored with Tonka Beans; Apple Lace." Gelee has its place and it is quite the rage among pastry chefs of a particular stripe - much as foam is/was. In this case, at this point in the meal, asking us to appreciate the texture of the gelee was just too much - the only word for them is bad. I think most everyone politely tasted each of the three gelees, but I did not see anyone finish all of them. The same cannot be said for the Apple Quince Lasagna, which was rich and buttery with the richness cut by the apple jus. This course was paired with a Joseph Phelps 2002 Eisrebe. Notes on the Wine Pairings Overall the wines worked well on their own as well as with the dishes they were served with. We thought that the Saint Veran was an excellent wine on its own, much better than the more expensive Chassagne Montrachet which we thought was too young and didn't give much. The Saint-Emillion was still a little lightweight even after sitting in the glass, but it paired well with the salty elements of the risotto. The Barbera was the standout wine of the evening, a perfect foil for the pungency of the roquefort. The Port was the same one served during the tasting, here being used less successfully in a dessert context than as an aperitif with the chocolate during the tasting. Finally, the Eisrebe, made in Calfornia with a reisling hybrid, was a simple wine without any of the complexity you'd get from a true late-harvest or ice wine. Conclusion This dinner asked and answered, for me, the question, "Is it possible to have too much chocolate?" The answer is, "Yes."It is very clear that Mr. Bau is a top pastry chef and very much in command of his oeuvre. However, ultimately, I think the thing that made the dinner less successful for me than it might have been (even considering its overwhelming nature) was the limited vocabulary of chocolate flavors that Frederic used. Apart from the Chuao in the Mise en Bouche, the only chocolates used were the four presented in the wine tasting. A much lighter touch in ladling sauces, smaller portion sizes, coupled with time to refine the recipes and incorporate different chocolate flavors would make the dinner a delight; but that night we were guinea pigs paying heavily for the privilege.The tasting portion of the evening highlighted for me the challenges of explaining chocolate to a wine audience that is not familiar with how chocolate is made. This is something I struggle with every time I make a presentation on the subject. The challenge was made greater because of the language barrier. I am sure that Mr Bau would have done a better job in his native French, but only a very small percentage of the audience would have undertood what he was saying. Because of Mr Bau's lack of fluency in English many important concepts (at least they are important to me) were incompletely or inaccurately described. This comment is made against the fact that only a few days ago I teamed up with someone else at Kobrand (importer of Maison Louis Jadot) to give a chocolate and port pairing. We worked together beforehand to produce a tight outline of what we were going to say, and were both able to see where the other was making assumptions about that the audience might know and make sure they were explained clearly.There were more misses than hits and they did not completely detract from the point of the evening, which was to look at chocolate in new ways and to think about chocolate as a savory element in conjunction with wine. Many others obviously thought so too: also in attendance were Rose Levy-Berenbaum, the cookbook author and chocolate expert; Florian Bellanger, Executive Pastry Chef of Fauchon; and Jean-Francois Bonnet, the Executive Pastry Chef at Restaurant Daniel.On the DiscoverChocolate rating scale: Outcome: Good Effort and Imagination: Superior Value: Superior - the entire experience, including the chocolate tasting, dinner, companionship and conversation, and all wine was only $85 (not including tax and tip). I just wish the food was better.

Colin Gasko has released his next three origin chocolates Jamaica, Hispaniola, and Trinidad. Like his first two releases, these chocolates are all 70%.My earlier post about Rogue Chocolatier has all the background info and includes reviews of the first two bars, Ocumare and Sambirano. Trinidad and Hispaniola chocolates were purchased at Kitchen Window, and the Jamaica was purchased at Surdyk's. All are currently available on the Rogue website . Word from Colin is that Ocumare stocks are depleted, and everything else is about 3/4 of the way there, and he says there are only about 50 Sambirano left. He says that after it's all gone he may focus mainly on making Hispaniola for awhile. As my review below would indicate, these three are as much a success as the first two, with the Jamaica perhaps being Colin's best work to date. So everyone is encouraged to get all of these chocolates while they still can! Here are a couple of media updates, if you want to have a virtual visit to Colin's factory. A video from local TV, and an NPR radio segment.

Hispaniolaorigin: Northern Dominican Republicrating: 8.9The aroma comes out with a very strong pia colada sensation, which returns again in the finish. There is a strong perfume or floral essence that I cannot yet name. The flavor has a wonderful intense plum. Evokes waterfalls and canyons. This chocolate is distinctive and delicious. Add to that a long and tangy finish, and all in all this Hispaniola makes for a unique and memorable taste experience.aroma: banana, leather, pia colada, mango juice, raspberry, wine, cherry, honey, twigs, almonds, dirt, champagne, pine, cinnamon, red licorice, sweet tarts, cognac, perfume/cologne/floral, blueberryflavor: pine, cherry, wine, plum, grapefruit, olive, red currant, sunshine, lemonade, berry jam, fig newtonfinish: wine, ash, blackberry, leather, mango, papaya, pia colada, watermelon rind, grape juice, bermuda onion, whiskey, lemon, honey, freshest milk, orange, pear, caramelTrinidadrating: 8.9Now those of you who have read the earlier post may recall that when I visited the Rogue factory, I tasted an early sample of this bar, and found it much fruitier than my other experiences with Trinidad, which I have also very much enjoyed, the Amadei and Pralus. In that sample the coconut was intense and very forward and there was also a wallop of banana in the flavor. Now that Colin has tweaked this chocolate a bit more, it has changed a tiny bit. The banana was here in the flavor this time, but less so, and the coconut was really subdued, really not in the flavor but mainly the aroma. Very strong pine notes in the flavor. This chocolate has a nice buzz to it, and then later comes out with a calming effect accompanied by soothing caramel notes.aroma: coffee, leather, tent, pine forest, spruce, blackberry, cologne, cedar, pine nuts, mushroom, pine bark, molasses, coconut, pia colada, strawberry, dew, grass, melon, orchid, sea breeze, champagne, pineapple, golden honey, caramelflavor: pine, banana, apple, orchid, cranberry, macadamia, strawberryfinish: cherry, wood, caraway, leather, mushroom, blossoms, clove, blueberry, burnt sugar, graham cracker pie crust with cream pie, cinnamon, caramel, lime, grass, dirt, turpentine, soy, mildew, olive, peppermint, salt, plum, honey, coffee with a little lemon caramelJamaicarating: 9.3Delicious flavor and quite an aroma very complex. This is a refreshing and satisfying chocolate with a lovely orange honey sailing in and out of the long and interesting finish. Forward champagne/berry dominates the flavor and aroma, but is balanced by plenty of interesting earthy elements and spice.aroma: leather, champagne, coffee, black pepper, raspberry, ocean, pistachio, patchouli, pineapple, clove, cinnamon, coconut, burlap, licorice, nut, rye, dried cherry, peach, pine forest, oat, sourdough, jade, djram, pine nuts, chestnut, oak, muddy water, raisin, carrots, green pepper, grapeflavor: cinnamon, paint, tarp, floral, nutmeg, raspberry, oreos, pineapple, fig, strawberry, yogurt, clove, mintfinish: mud bath, clay, dirt, banana, mint, wood, cherry, rose, lime, sea urchin, starfish, gelatin, metal, burlap, bread, orange blossom honey, honeysuckle, moist woods, cinnamon, rye, caramel, oat, nuts, rust, cereal grains, evergreen, cigarette tobacco, mist, must, pearlsCross posted from Chocolate Note

Clay Gordon is leading a small group of us throughout Europe upon a 5-star quest for the best chocolate in Switzerland, France & Belgium in July.CALLING ALL CHOCOLATE LOVERS to join us inside the salons, factories and kitchens of Felchlin, Bonnat, Pralus and Bernachon. We will be personally introduced to world-class master chocolatiers and sample a good deal of chocolate throughout this spectacular and once-in-a-lifetime journey!Enjoy sumptuous multi-course dinners on Lake Lucerne and the Seine River, wine receptions, a guided tour through the Chocolate Museum in Brugges - all at an incredible savings at group rates (save $500/night at the Four Seasons George V in Paris - double occupancy - chocolate spa treatment included!).CLTC's deadline is 3/25/08 - to lock in at these prices (Euro has gone up significantly since we locked in our group rates).Reservations are coming in so visit: www.ChocolateLoversTravelClub.com for more details and reserve your space today!

"Since its foundation, the United Nations system has been collecting statistical information from member states on a variety of topics. The information thus collected constitutes a considerable information asset of the organization. However, these statistical data are often stored in proprietary databases, each with unique dissemination and access policies. As a result, users are often unaware of the full array of statistical information that the UN system has in its data libraries. The current arrangement also means that users are required to move from one database to another to access different types of information. UNdata addresses this problem by pooling major UN databases and those of several other international organizations into one single Internet environment. The innovative design allows a user to access a large number of UN databases either by browsing the data series or through a keyword search." - from a press announcement Searching through UNdata is a great way to waste a lot of time looking for what my father calls, "very important information not worth knowing." It's really quite a silly name when you think about it un-data. Not data? What's not-data?A search on cacao results in no results, while a search for cocoa returns 11. Among the results is a table that displays the quantity and value of the trade of "Cocoa and cocoa preparations." This reveals that the US, in 2006 (I suppose the last year for which figures are available), imported about 473,650 metric tons of "Cocoa beans, whole or broken, raw or roasted" with a total value (in 2006 US$) of about $780 million. In 2006, the US also imported about 33,800 metric tons of cocoa liquor, about 96,450 metric tons of cocoa butter, and about 104,760 metric tons of unsweetened cocoa powder.I have no idea what this really means except that it's a very large number: about 708,660,000 kilograms, more than 2kg or about 5 pounds per man woman and child. Keep in mind that this figure does not include what the US imported in the way of finished chocolate products.I also have no idea what I am going to do with this information. However, I do know that I possess an instinctive ability to remember things in inverse proportion to their importance, so I know that in 5 years I am going to be able to recite at least the "5 pounds" figure while I will have trouble remembering what time to pick up my daughter from piano practice after school that day.

Local press coverage of the 6th Annual Death by Chocolate Festival at Copia can be found here .Copia bills itself as the American Center for Wine, Food, and the Arts and on February 23rd they should have added chocolate into that title somewhere - at least for the day. California and Ziad Kurjie of the US operations of Patchi Chocolates (who are headquartered in Lebanon).I had the pleasure and the privilege to deliver the keynote tasting session as well as moderate the keynote panel on sustainability.Several Chocolate Life members were there including Tracey Downey of Downey Chocolates in Laguna Niguel,The most interesting chocolates I tasted all weekend were:Downey Chocolates' Caramel with fig and walnuts (most decadent);Michael Mischer's Root Beer barrel (most likely to transport you to childhood); andJade Chocolates' dark bar with sesame, chili, and lapsang souchong tea (most sophisticated).Up and coming chocolatiers include Raffine and Ginger Elizabeth and chocolate makers Tcho and Askinosie.Copia is a great venue and if you ever find yourself in the Napa Valley taking in the wine you should plan to visit. And, just across the parking lot is the new Oxbow Market, modeled on the Ferry Plaza market in San Francisco. Check out the wine and cheese merchant as well as the Fatted Calf (great butcher and charcuterie). My only beef (pun intended) is that there's no soul to the Market. Everything seems artfully arranged and just so-so. Maybe that will change as it ages, I certainly hope so.I've already posted a couple of photos from my trip (including a stop in Central Point, OR) and there are more to come.

I am a friend of Clay's. He helped me get my start in the chocolate industry. A lot has happened since he gave me my first advice 5 years ago! Everything from Food Network to Newsweek, opening and closing my first chocolate shop and now writing a book that will be released nationwide in September of 2008. Life is exciting and delicious!I have a lot of successes and some failures that will be great food for thought for some of you. Feel free to post questions on my blog and I will answer as I can.Chocolate Love,Bethany

The Academy of Chocolates has announces the winners of the Chocolate Awards for 2008 . I think many of you will be pleased with the results.I, for one, feel tickled that I'm familiar with most of the names and bars, but also that I've been lucky enough to taste some of them too. If nothing else, this list will work as a good starting point for my next chocolate order.

Here's a question for any seriously informed chocolate people. What's the story with the Smith (aka W.C. Smith) company? The used enrober market is peppered with Smith machines, and a quick search turns up enrober patents listed under a W Smith & Sons Inc. My search for info on the company that makes/made these machines has been fruitless, however. Are they closed? Were they bought out? Is the Smith line currently made/supported by another company? Is it some kind of national secret?

I ask because sooner or later (probably sooner) one has to repair such a machine. Hilliards, for example, has a good reputation for product support and ease of repair, important considerations when one is spending money on new equipment. If I get a Smith and something needs replacing...then what?

I've noticed a trend that disturbs me. There are enough misconceptions and unjustified biases in the chocolate world already; it's time this one was laid to rest. I've seen it time and again, in news features and in company literature. I saw it just now. As interest in fine chocolate rises and the number of domestic bean-to-bar manufacturers rises (thank goodness), I see it more often.

"We don't just melt other people's chocolates."

The sentiment is a fair one, but it's so often expressed poorly. There are certainly professionals who "just" melt other peoples' chocolates. These are not the fondeurs; they are the bad fondeurs. The lazy, the opportunistic, or simply the rustic and innocent. Ma & pa candy shops in seaside resort towns "just" melt down other peoples' chocolates; so do large companies that fall over themselves to tell you how refined they are. We've probably all amused ourselves with the story of Noka. Bad fondeurs.

To lump all chocolatiers together as people who just make candy with other people's chocolate is unfair. Do you put Robert Linxe in the same class as Lake Champlain? Jacques Genin and Godiva? There is definitely a difference. Starting with fine chocolate is key; starting with a variety of fine chocolates is equally important. The bigger the palette, the more room for expression. Even leaving out the rest of the process, these two provisions are enough to separate a handful of good chocolatiers from the mediocre majority. Curious that an artisan chocolate maker will go to such lengths to differentiate their process--sourcing directly from small growers, manufacturing small batches in a hands-on fashion to preserve flavor, etc.--and then fail to make the same distinctions for their colleagues on the other side of the fence. It's like a small chocolatier saying "unlike those larger bean-to-bar operations, who only make chocolate-flavored chocolate, we put a dozen flavors in every box". Pretty weak argument.

A good fondeur's work is the same as that of a good chocolate maker, or for that matter, a good chef: create surpassing flavors and textures; create a sensory experience to delight the consumer. A fondeur doesn't make his own couverture, a chef doesn't raise his own cattle, and (in most cases) a chocolate maker doesn't grow his own beans. Having spent some time on both sides of the chocolate industry, I'll vouch that making chocolate is no more or less difficult than making chocolate bonbons. In both fields, it's much easier to make a passable product than to make one that excels. If the artisan chooses to settle for nothing less than the best; s/he is charged with synthesizing numerous base ingredients into something profound and unique. The chocolate maker handles ingredients with larger equipment, and needs a certain understanding of how to employ complex machinery to get very specific results. The chocolatier works with smaller, simpler tools, and employs a certain physical coordination to get very specific results. Both require a deep knowledge of the chemistry and physics at work, and an intuitive understanding of the raw materials and their potential.

Chocolate makers, of course, use fewer ingredients. Many are fond of pointing out the "purity" of their product and its flavor. They like to point out all the things they don't add. Well, of course fine chocolate really shouldn't contain cocoa butter substitutes or vanillin, so more power to you there. But the notion of "pure" chocolate is artificial. Pure chocolate doesn't exist, as chocolate is not found in nature. Once a cacao bean has been fermented, it's essentially a product of human technology. Everything that happens from then on is craftsmanship, and adding soy lecithin or vanilla beans is as valid a choice as drying and roasting. I've had very "pure" chocolate bars that I wouldn't wish on anyone--the only meaningful standard is how a chocolate feels and tastes in your mouth. Everything else is just marketing.

Marketing. I certainly understand why a company needs to differentiate itself from others in their field. Even on a very broad level, however, a chocolate makers' competitors are other chocolate makers, not the chocolatiers. Dismissing the craft of the fondeur in half a sentence is unnecessary and is, in fact, a thinly veiled insult to the chocolate masters of the world. The two sides of artisanal chocolate really have a great deal in common, yet they are frequently treated as different worlds. Surely we would benefit from a little more unity.

I am spending the year in Israel with the goal of interviewing every chocolatier in the country. So far I'm about halfway through. If you have questions about choc in Israel or kosher chocolate, I'm your woman. My blog, Chocolatespeak is also a great resource.