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Text of interview we had (in French).


By Pimm van der Donk, 2011-02-23
''Le chocolat est devenu un produit trop banal'', selon Philipp Kauffman, fondateur de Original Beans. La hausse du prix du cacao, caus par la crise politique en Cte dIvoire, relancera-t-elle le dbat sur le commerce du cacao pour un changement du systme?
Le meilleur du chocolat
Les spcialistes du chocolat Pimm et Marcel van der Donk tiennent une chocolaterie de luxe dans un quartier chic dAmsterdam. Cette petite boutique propose le meilleur du chocolat aux fins gourmets qui veulent savourer son got dans sa plus pure forme et toutes sortes de varits de produits drivs de cette gourmandise.
Les clients sont prts payer un prix lev pour des marques exclusives et un chocolat de qualit : ''Une plaquette de 80g de chocolat Porcelana, un chocolat de haute qualit produit en quantit trs limite, coute entre 8 et 9,50'', explique Marcel van der Donk. Ceux qui choisissent cette boutique pour acheter leur chocolat nauront pas mauvaise conscience, car les chocolatiers font tout pour proposer des produits issus du commerce quitable et biologiques.
Le prix rel du chocolat
Le ''mur de chocolat'' de la boutique propose entre autres une plaquette de chocolat fabriqu avec un cacao provenant du parc national Virunga, dans le Nord-Kivu. Cette rgion de la Rpublique dmocratique du Congo est rpute pour sa population de gorilles, mais surtout pour ses conflits arms incessants. La marque Original Beans, axe sur la durabilit et le respect de lenvironnement, a dvelopp un partenariat avec ces producteurs de cacao congolais.
Lors dun entretien tlphonique avec le fondateur dOriginal Beans, Philipp Kauffmann, celui-ci affirme que les producteurs reoivent environ 0,30 sur une plaquette de 70g cotant 5,20 : ''Ils gagnent le double du prix pay sur le march classique, car ils reoivent une prime fair trade, une prime biologique, ainsi que le financement dactivits de dveloppement.'' Mais le dfi pour les socits chocolatires, poursuit Kauffmann, est que le prix pay aux producteurs est multipli par quatre au cours du processus de transport et de fabrication, ce qui les pousse payer le prix le plus bas possible aux producteurs''.
Produit banal
Le fait que les fabricants de produits base de chocolat fassent des conomies non seulement au niveau du prix pay la base, mais toutes les tapes du processus, compromet la qualit du cacao. ''Des conomies sont faites au niveau de la fermentation des fves de cacao, qui doit tre faite par les producteurs directement aprs la cueillette, mais galement sur le stockage, ce qui donne un cacao amer'', regrette Kauffmann.
Les chocolatiers van der Donk sont surtout davis que le chocolat est devenu un produit trop banal et trop bon march : ''Le chocolat est devenu un produit commun, pas un produit quon prend vraiment le temps de savourer. Les produits industriels sont remplis dadditifs et de sucre et ne contiennent parfois que 5% de cacao.'' Kauffmann est du mme avis : ''Le chocolat est devenu un produit trop bon march, le commerce du cacao est encore bas sur un systme colonial''.
Changement du systme
Un changement du systme est indispensable, selon Kauffmann, et ce tous les niveaux de la chane : ''Le prix pay ne tient aucunement compte des conditions de travail des producteurs, qui travaillent dans des conditions abominables, ni des consquences quont la production sur lenvironnement''. Et selon lui, il serait temps que les consommateurs payent plus pour des produits quitables : ''Comme pour le caf, le cacao est un produit avec lequel les consommateurs occidentaux peuvent avoir une influence directe sur la vie des producteurs.''
Cependant Pimm van der Donk constate qu ''un prix lev pay pour du chocolat nest hlas pas toujours une garantie que le producteur ait plus de revenus, car nous ne pouvons pas vrifier lorigine du cacao, malgr nos efforts. Mais nous savons que les situations de conflit dans les pays producteurs, comme en Cte dIvoire, engendrent des situations dabus des travailleurs, par manque dalternatives de sources de revenus.''
Un commerce vraiment quitable ?
La chocolaterie dAmsterdam peut se vanter davoir un assortiment de produits quitable, mais ces gourmandises sont fabriques dans les pays de consommation, qui empochent donc la plus grande part des bnfices. Nest-il pas temps que les pays producteurs produisent eux-mmes leur chocolat pour permettre un rel dveloppement conomique ? Marcel van der Donk est daccord : ''Je trouverais bon que les pays producteurs puissent produire le produit fini. Le chocolat de Pacari, une entreprise familiale en Equateur, est malheureusement lunique exemple de fabrication locale de qualit que nous connaissons.''
Le march du chocolat de haute qualit, biologique et provenant du commerce quitable, est en pleine expansion et de plus en plus accessible au grand public. Maintenant, au consommateur de faire son choix.
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Having recently concluded the first playoff chocolate tasting party, I find myself feeling a little disappointed. Don't get me wrong, both the Lindt -Double Milk Chocolate and Marabou -Milk Chocolate are excellent chocolate bars! However, I'm yet to be awestruck or mesmerized by one of them. So many chocolate bars have just been average. Eric Nylund , where can I find a chocolate bar that matches your descriptions !!? Do they only exist in fantasy worlds!? *Sigh*, surely there is such a chocolate bar in the real world too!

As the Quest For The World's Best Chocolate Bar continues, let me share with you my most important characteristics of the perfect chocolate bar.

http://thequestfortheworldsbestchocolatebar.blogspot.com/2011/02/characteristics-of-best-chocolate-bar.html

[Moderator Note: There were broken links to Eric Nylund and Descriptions . The links were removed and Bernt was notified in the hopes of fixing them.]

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Needed - Samoan Cocoa Farmer


By Ualifi Tusieseina Taualii, 2011-02-17
I saw a blog entry a while back about a person in Samoa who had access to a supply of Samoan Cocoa beans. I started into the chocolate world in 1968 with a Hawaiian Candy Line "Hawaiian Mainland Products". I am looking for a joint venture partner in Samoa to expand the cocoa production. If anyone has anyone information please forward it to my e-mail address - nofoatolu@gmail.com
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Where to go in Belgium? Kortrijk!


By Vera Hofman, 2011-02-14

Last year on February 11th I was in London to attend a tasting of Seventypercent.com with Art Pollard of Amano, which I enjoyed very much. This year on February 11th I was in Kortrijk to visit my chocolate friend Geert Vercruysse ( www.patisserievercruysse.be ).

I met Geert at a chocolate symposium for professionals arranged by Hidde de Brabander, a talented patissier/chocolatier in the Netherlands, May last year. I represented Original Beans (I am their ambassador). Geert was very enthusiastic and I was impressed by his tasting vocabulaire. It took a lot of months before I had the opportunity to visit him. But finally....

What a beautiful shop he has! Pastries, homemade chocolates and a fine selection of bars. Original Beans' had just arrived and were already displayed on the counter. First I had to taste some delicious pastries and chocolates. My favourite was a chocolate with a Pacari Raw ganache. Geert makes everything on his own, unbelievable! After that there was some work to do: making chocolate cakes with a mousse of Valrhona's Tanariva and a mousse of Amano's Madagascar, see photos below. Gorgeous!

At last I did some research in the shop. Could I find a bar I didn't taste so far? Yes! Bouga Cacao and the Heritage Limited Edition of El Ceibo.

February 14th is my birthday. I will treat my colleagues on Geert's fine chocolates. I'm sure they'll love it!

Thank you Geert for your warm welcome. I had a wonderful time!

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Last week, we have finally received our sample of cacao beans from the cooperative we work with (Jose Olaya - Article on our website here ).

With that cacao we made the first steps of chocolate making with Sr Walter Campana in the city of Cusco in Peru.

This video will show you the first steps of our artisanal chocolate process : Toasting, Husk removing, winnowing and grinding.

ChocoMuseo Working with cacao - Trabajando con cacao

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Please watch our website ChocoMuseo Peru for more information on our work.

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Duffy's Chocolate in Amsterdam


By Pimm van der Donk, 2011-02-10

As first and only Chocolaterie in the Netherlands, we yesterday received Duffys Chocolate, the second, artisan bean-to-bar company in the UK, in Cleethorpes, Lincolnshire.
All bars are single origin, so all from one harvest, one certain area in a certain country and therefore all of them with a certain tast profile Each batch of beans is conched between 40-70 hours.

The bars we have in our Chocolaterie in Amsterdam are:

  • Corazon del Ecuador- 43% milkchocolate,
  • Corazon del Ecuador72% and 83% dark chocolate. The beans are from Calceta in Ecuador.
  • Star of Peru - 70% dark chocolate
  • Simply the ultimate is the Indio Rojo, made of the 72% Xoco Criollo from Honduras.

All chocolate is also single origin, handmade, fairly-traded and organic.

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ChocoMuseo, the cacao and chocolate museum in Cusco, Peru will open soon.

To have an idea of how it will look like, please look here for taking a 3D virtual tour.

Next step will be to have a real virtual tour where you can read every sign and learn about cacao and chocolate.

Tomorrow, stone-grinding machines will arrive from the US and we will finally be able to taste and make chocolate with our organic fermented cacao beans obtained from the Jose Olaya Cooperative.

We will tell you more about it in the next post.

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Taza Chocolate Mexicanos


By Pimm van der Donk, 2011-02-05

The Taza chocolate Mexicanos have finally arrived in our Chocolaterie in Amsterdam!

The authentic stone-ground chocolate from Somerville, MA, is direct trade, gluten, dairy and soy free and comes in 8 different varieties: Yerba Mat, Cacao Puro, Salted Almond, Vanilla Bean, Guajillo Chili, Cinnamon, Salt&Pepper and Coffee.

We also have the chocolate covered Cashews, and they're treat.

Great packaging also.

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A one-two Parisian chocolate punch


By Sweet Freak, 2011-01-30

Jean-Paul Hvin, Patrick Roger, Un Dimanche Paris I was certainly getting around to my favorite chocolatiers during my last weeks in Paris. But in the very last few days, I made visits to two brand new chocolatiers: Chloe Chocolat and Franck Kestener.

My own copy of Chlo Doutre-Roussels bible, The Chocolate Connoisseur (2005), is a tattered, stained mess from all the bonbons I consumed while reading about Criollo trees and the tempering process. And when I spoke with Chlo at the Salon du Chocolat in October about the chocolate salon she was opening dangerously close to my apartment, needless to say I was as giddy as a kid in a candy shop. She debuted her two-story sliver of a salon just days before my departure, so I got to sit and chat with her and taste some mighty good chocolate.

What distinguishes Chloaside from being the former chocolate buyer for Fortnum & Mason and one of the very few female pros in an industry dominated by menis how no-nonsense she is. She doesnt scold about cocoa percentages or eschew milk chocolate for dark. She doesnt make you feel like a chump for liking chocolate even if its not wrapped up from a beans to bar artisan or stamped with organic approval. Dont worry about where the beans come from, she insists. When you buy chocolate, youre buying an emotional experience; its sensory. Ah oui, merci!

Thats not to say shes not on a crusade to make the world filled with better chocolate and more appreciation for it. Indeed, the intent of her new Marais home is to school both amateurs and connoisseurs through classes ranging from an introduction to chocolate to comprehensive international trends. She also offers two-and-a-half-hour walking tours that pay visits to some of the citys most prestigious chocolatiers. And, once youve worked up a chocolate appetite, she offers milk and dark chocolate tablettes (in adorable packaging), both of which are divine and can be paired with carefully selected teas.

Across town, Meilleur Ouvrier de France Chocolatier, Franck Kestener offers a different, more decadent chocolate experience. Its a posh shop near the Luxembourg Gardens, peddling marzipan, macarons, mendiants and more.

I went straight for his ganache-filled bonbons, which come in a beautiful and inspired range of flavors, from buttery tarte tatin to crisp mint to fruity juniper.

I saved my square of Atlantiqueshortbread and salted caramel, topped with 66% dark chocolatefor the plane ride home, but piggishly ate two Nuages while strolling the streets of the sixth arrondissement. Another one of the young chocolatiers specialties, these treats look like cannels but are filled with a light and fluffy whipped chocolate marshmallow.

Its been over three weeks since those visits. My cupboard is finally depleted of the bars and bonbons I brought home with me. I think I need another Parisian chocolate run.

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While opening the Cacao and Chocolate Museum in Cusco, we decided to travel to the "Valle de la Convencin" (5 hours from Cusco), region where most cacao is produced in Peru.

Talking to some producers or cooperatives, we saw that in fact cacao is not or poorly fermented in these region because farmers do not receive enough money to ferment their cacao so they prefer selling it without fermentation.

A lot of people here in Cusco prepare and produce what they call "Chocolate para taza" which is mainly cacao paste (or cacao liquor) that people use to prepare hot chocolate mixing it with hot water or milk. And in fact a lot of these producers do not know about fermentation and the impact that it has on the flavour of chocolate.

At ChocoMuseo we have decided to work with a small cooperative called "Cooperativa Jose Olaya" to be able to get some good fermented cacao. All the producers seem to be enthusiasmed by the project. For the moment, only 5 or 6 will ferment their cacao properly but the objective is that the whole 104 farmers in a few years will produce high quality cacao and find other buyers who can assure them good prices.

In a week we will receive our first batch of fermented cacao (Chuncho and Hybrid) and we will make our chocolate and see how it will come out. Very exciting in fact! We'll tell you more about it on our blog/website - http://Peru.ChocoMuseo.com

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